Where's Your Sit?

Practice Everywhere!

2012-02-24T18:35:00.000-07:00

What's the most commonly ignored but incredibly important part of training your dog? Taking the show on the road! If you only practice inside a class room, your home or in your neighbourhood then your dog isn't learning to listen around enough distractions. It's as simple as that.

Practicing in new environments is something people who compete in dog sports are well aware of but often the average pet owner just doesn't think about. Whether you have a new puppy or an older dog it's important to proof new skills everywhere.

Here's a list of some of my favourite places to practice:

> The house (all NEW skills start here)

> My neighbourhood

> My 5 parks close to the house

> Nose Hill off leash area

> Southland off leash area

> Edworthy off leash area

> The pathway system (anywhere)

> Pet stores across the city

> Horse arenas

> Friends & Clients homes

> Other dog classes that I sign up for!

> Camping

> Other towns like Canmore & Bragg Creek

> The train station

> Stores that allow dogs inside (I use to use movie stores a lot but I've had to get more creative... banks are usually good)

Be creative and get out there! Where's Your Sit offers classes all over the city including dog parks, indoors at a community hall, dog parks and the c train station. If you want to join our group and get out to practice then give me a shout! Feel free to share your practice ideas in the comments section.

Taking the Food out of Training

2012-02-22T11:18:00.000-07:00

At some point or another if you have trained using food or treats you need to fade them out. I usually have clients ask me about this when they have a show or a PALS test coming up. Here's some key tips on how to keep your dog listening even without the good stuff in hand!

> Use a variable reinforcement schedule so your dog never knows what will produce a food reward. With young dogs or beginners you'll need to reward more often and then slowly make them work harder.
> Keep food or treats out of sight when training and only pull them out AFTER the dog has done what you asked.
> Use alternate rewards! Toys, praise, petting, play, etc are all great reinforcers too. The more you use other rewards the easier it is to put the food away.
> Practice in different locations so your dog gets use to all sorts of distractions. Remember in new places you'll need to go back a few steps to let your dog adjust.
> Keep your dog guessing. If he/she doesn't know when a reward is coming he/she'll actually work harder in the long run to please.
> Continue to practice with food on occasion so your dog stays motivated especially for harder skills like coming when called or loose leash walking.

Every dog works at a different pace so don't get discouraged. A good way to start fading out food is to join a group class and ask your trainer to help you out. This often one of the harder parts of training and having a guide who knows when/how is very helpful.

Confidence Boosting for Fearful Dogs

2012-02-14T10:41:00.000-07:00

Dogs might have fear related anxiety for numberous reasons and regardless of why they are suffering (trauma, lack of socialization, etc) there's a lot you can do to improve your pet's quality of life.

Start by making a list of things your dog is nervous or anxious about. These things can include anything from strangers to other dogs to stuff animals to vacuum cleaners. Anything your pet shows discomfort around can be on the list.

Teach your pet some fun tricks that keep him/her moving so they have a distraction when the scary thing/event is happening. I love hand targets, spin, loose leash walking, chase (dogs chases you), jumping, etc. This gives your dog something else to concentrate on.

In Where's Your Sit's Confidence Booster class we teach the dogs the tricks and then introduce low level scary stimuli like a dog across the room or a weird noise. As long as the your dog is able to keep eating and "playing" then they are learning to tolerate the scary event. Make sure to start really slowly (this is where working with a dog trainer would be helpful).

Allow your dog to look at the scary thing and then reward with a tasty treat when he/she looks back at you. Try to keep sessions very short (less than 5 minutes) and keep your attitude upbeat (but not over the top). The more your dog is exposed to scary, new stimuli that doesn't hurt them and that is paired with something fun like games and food the quicker their confidence will increase.

Photo: Marco learning that sheep are fun!

New Kid on the Block

2012-02-02T18:16:00.000-07:00

I live with 2 dogs full time and then share both Tank and Russ so I wasn't planning on adding any new arrivals but along came this Frenchie... basically "Billie" was living with a foster family with Alberta Bulldog Rescue (which I sit on the Board for) and the family couldn't keep her. She had been attending my Confidence Booster Program and had really started to do well. I didn't want to lose her progress so she came to my house. Well it took all of a few hours for everyone to fall in love. So I'd like to welcome "Remi Perogie" our newest addition with her new name.

Remi is going to be living with my boyfriend but that essentially means she's going to be around all the time. This little tyke is an older girl with some allergy issues. She's also very unsure in new situations so we'll be charting her progress on the WYS Blog so everyone can cheer her on.

What Remi is happy about:

> couches, beds & dog beds

> loves her kennel

> enjoys other dogs as long as they aren't in her face. She's quite polite.

> meeting people in a really quiet, non-threatening way

> going for walks but not long ones

> most small rubber dog toys and chews

> dinner time

What Remi is worried about:

> any new place

> lots of loud, excited dogs

> people who move quickly and across really strong (me too but they are in the world so we need to deal with them)

> changes to her routine/situation

Remi will finish up this round of Confidence Booster and will then possibly do another round. She'll also give the sport of Rally-O a try just because I think it'll be good for her. She's not staying on as a sporting dog but I'm a strong believer that dog sports are good for all dogs (just not necessarily being competitive about it).

Sometimes Dogs Don't Get Along...

2012-01-11T10:14:00.000-07:00

Alright so I'm running into a common misperception a lot lately... for some reason people think that ALL dogs should get along and be friends or simply work it out until one of them is "in charge" and then life will be peaceful. Sadly this is not the case.

In fact many adult dogs don't get along. They might prefer not to be around puppies, or dislike members of the same sex or feel uncomfortable around larger canines. Whatever their preference some will opt to fight or growl or avoid certain dogs. This is normal and you need to respect your dog's feelings on the matter. This is also why dog parks aren't a great idea for all dogs. It's also a good reason to make sure you allow your dog to meet any potential dogs that you might add to your family beforehand.

If two dogs don't get along and are fighting it is never a good idea to simply "let them work it out". Most fights are all noise and show but if they are allowed to continue it can severely damage any chance of the dogs getting along in the long term. They can also escalate where dogs end up with injuries.

Why is my dog snarling in the window?: A Breakdown of Barrier Reactivity

2011-12-28T09:55:00.000-07:00

My Aussie Marco is a really friendly and well adjusted dog. He came to me with a great temperament at 8 weeks old and through mountains of socialization he has continued to be my most trustworthy dog around other dogs, small animals, babies and of course new people. Marco however has a secret... he use to be extremely barrier reactive. What does this mean?

Barrier reactivity is when you put a dog behind a fence, kennel door, window, leash, etc. and they see a person or another dog or small animal. An over reaction follows that might include lunging, growling, showing of teeth, barking, snarling, etc. Marco literally went from wiggling, happy puppy to full on vampire face. Even my trainer friends thought he was aggressive until of course I opened the kennel door and poof it vanished and my happy boy was back.

Marco had a very specific form of barrier reactivity that occurred only when he was in his kennel and saw another dog. It also had to be a dog he didn't know well (the other dogs in my house didn't elicit any sort of reaction from him). I deduced that for Marco it occurred because he was extremely frustrated that he couldn't go meet the other dogs and he would blow up like a toddler having a temper tantrum until he got his way and was allowed to play. This behaviour first appeared at 6 months (right around when adolescence kicks in) and I had solved the problem before he reached 8 months. It did take some work though.

So now that you have a good idea of what barrier reactivity is you're probably wondering how you can solve it? Well it depends on WHY your dog is reacting. A good trainer can help you figure this one out. A dog that is overly excited is different than a dog that is fearful. Both dogs can demonstrate barrier reactivity. I would address the issues quite differently though. An over excited dog needs to learn impulse control (Marco had to wait to be quiet before I would let him out of the kennel to play so he learned quiet, calm behaviour got him what he wanted instead of growling). A scared dog (like Heidi) needed a confidence boosting program to help her learn to trust not only me but understand that people passing by aren't going to hurt her.

The good news is that barrier reactivity is one of those issues that can be resolved within a fairly reasonable amount of time and improve the dog's (and owner's) quality of life fairly significantly.

Where's Your Sit? offers 2 fun group classes that can help both hyper, excited dogs as well as fearful dogs. Check out our Hyper Dog Program or our Confidence Booster Program to help your pup today. We also offer private, in home training that can address this issue.

Dog Aggression & Common Sense

2011-12-26T11:47:00.002-07:00

The more time I spend working with people and their dogs the more apparent it becomes that sometimes common sense takes a back seat.

Here's an example: "My dog sometimes snaps at other dogs and seems uncomfortable". I advise the client to keep their dog away from other dogs while we work on the issues (in a controlled setting). This means not visiting off leash dog parks or allowing dogs to approach yours while on leash.

Within generally 1-7 days of the first meeting I get an email that goes something like this: "So we were at the dog park the other day and Rover bit another dog".

So why does this happen? I've come to a few conclusions here. I believe that dog owners inherently want their dog to be social and comfortable. They also believe that exposing their dog to other dogs will alleviate the anxiety and fear their dog feels.

Unfortunately that doesn't work very well when you aren't also working on counter conditioning to the fear and using dogs that are fairly neutral in their interactions with other dogs.

Dogs who have anxiety, aggression or even a high arousal around other dogs should not be meeting them in dog parks or on leash as this is likely to make the situation worse. Obviously keeping your dog completely separate isn't going to make things better either so here's what I suggest:

1. Contact a positive reinforcement trainer who has experience working with dog to dog aggression. The CPDT-KA trainers would be a great place to start but many cities have positive trainers who can help you out. Ask for references and watch them teach before you sign up.

2. Join a group class that keeps the dogs separate. Agility is NOT a good idea in this class because it increases arousal. I suggest an obedience class or rally obedience class.

3. Take your dog for walks where he/she can see other dogs at a distance and teach him/her to check back in with you rather than fixating on them.

4. If your dog is currently comfortable with a select dog (or dogs) then continue to let them interact in a fenced area where other stranger dogs can't join in. Do NOT introduce new dogs on your own but instead work closely with your trainer.

5. Pick up a book on dog behaviour. A few suggestions include "Help for your Fearful Dog" by Nicole Wilde or "Fight" by Jean Donaldson.

6. Do take your dog in for a vet check up especially if this issue is new. There are A LOT of medical reasons including pain, hypo-thyroidism and vaccine sensitivity that can create dog aggression. You'll often need to work with both a vet and a trainer to resolve it.

Please avoid taking your dog to areas where lots of dogs frequent because it can be overwhelming for your dog. This type of issue doesn't go away on it's own.

Dogs Behaving Badly...

2011-12-21T12:13:00.000-07:00

What should you do when your best friend is just not listening?

Well here's a few tips that can help you solve your problems or at least get you on the right path. Many dogs "act up" because they get something out of it.

Here's an example:
You come home from a long day at work and your best buddy is overwhelmed with excitement when you come in the door. He boundless jumps all over you. For some owners this is a real problem where they can actually be injured and knocked over.

So how would you go about teaching your beloved (and happy) pet to relax when you come home?

A great place to start is by asking yourself "What would I want him to do instead?". Dogs can not just stop and do nothing. We have to take all that energy and excitement and direct it at another source. This is a great time to teach a good solid sit stay or even a "drop/down stay". One of my clients opted to teach her dog to go get a toy and bring it to her. This gave the dog a very specific job and a way to burn his energy. Another one of my clients decided to teach her dog to go to bed and wait for a few minutes so she could get her shoes and coat off. Once she was ready she would release the dog and he'd be allowed to offer a "hug". The choices are plentiful and can be as creative as you like.

The key to stopping "bad" behaviour is replacing it with something more desirable. Many owners need help with this and it sure pays to have a trainer you can consult with.

Buying a Puppy or Dog from a Breeder: Some Considerations

2011-12-12T11:13:00.000-07:00

This is my follow up to the adopting a dog post from November 14. As I mentioned in that post not all dogs need to come from adoption or rescue groups. I am not arguing that there isn't a need for homes but it's not the best choice for every family.

That being said getting a dog from a breeder does not guarantee health or temperment (or even the right personality fit). Here's some must have's that breeders should adhere to before you buy a puppy or adult dog from them.

- All breeding dogs should be health screened for common issues in the breed. Most commonly this means OFA xrays done of elbows and hips, yearly eye exams (often referred to as CERF test), hearing exams (BAER), drug sensitivites, and of course a history of cancer, diabetes, epilesy and other diseases in the lines. Health screening will vary from breed to breed so do your research and find out what tests are recommended.

- Breeding dogs should be over the age of 2 years old (both males and females) and not bred every heat cycle (females).

- Breeders should practice socialization with their puppies from the first day. Puppies living in the home will generally be exposed to more stimuli but this does not guarantee anything. When asking questions about socialization please be considerate that the breeder is also balancing their life, keeping the puppies safe/healthy as well as exposing them to new things. This is however extremely important.

- Parent dogs should have good temperments with no exceptions. If you are looking for a family pet then I highly recommend being able to meet both parent dogs.

Sometimes breeders will have adult dogs looking for homes. This can happen for a variety of reasons but most commonly it is because the dog they kept isn't going to be a good addition to their breeding program (either the conformation is quite what they wanted or the dog doesn't have a certain attribute that they want). This can mean a well trained and well adjusted adult dog for a family. I highly recommend this for families with young children who want a mostly ready made dog (please still attend at least 1 obedience group class though... it's great for bonding).

Don't be afraid to ask your breeder questions but also be polite. Remember many good breeders aren't making a living by breeding dogs. They are doing it because they love the breed and want to enhance it.

Adopting a Dog? Some Considerations

2011-11-14T09:17:00.000-07:00

In recent years "adopting" a dog from a shelter or rescue group has become the norm. However adoption is not the only choice nor is it the best choice for every family. Personally I have "adopted" 3 adult dogs from the Calgary Humane Society, 1 adult dog from a breeder and purchased 2 puppies from breeders. There has been some significant differences in the dogs that came to me as puppies and those that showed up as adults.

Adopting A Puppy

Puppies (4 months and under) are available through rescue. They come in a variety of mixes as well as the occasional "purebred". They tend to be adopted quickly and spend very little time sitting in a shelter or foster home. So what's different about adopting a puppy rather than seeking out one from a reputable breeder?

- Unknown history on parents including their breeds and temperaments

- Unknown medical screening on parents

- Puppy might suffer malnutrition and lack of socialization

A good breeder does the work before a puppy is ever born. Planning a litter should include screening both parent dogs for a variety of genetic health concerns (includes hip displaysia, blindness, skin issues, ect). Parent dogs should also have a sound temperament because behaviour problems include a genetic component.

Another concern is whether your puppy got the right start once he/she were born. This can be extremely important because what a puppy is exposed to before they are 4 months old will affect them throughout their life. Puppies need to be fed a well balanced diet and experience new people (all ages), new dogs and changes in environment. This creates a happy, confident dog as an adult.

Adopting An Adult Dog

Adopting an adult dog can include all the challenges of adopting a puppy and more! Sometimes adult dogs are given up due to behaviour problems in the home including house soiling, biting, aggression with other dogs/pets, resource guarding or a general lack of manners. While these issues can generally be resolved with good management and a training plan they do exist. Sometimes adopters are not even aware that these issues exist at all.

One of the most important considerations should be what you want in a dog. Make a list and screen each dog carefully. Rescues and shelters who do their due diligence should be screening all adoptable dogs with behaviour assessments. Please take these assessments seriously but consider that the dog might act different once he/she settles into the home.

A list of considerations:

- What breed(s) do I want and why? Have I researched what this type of dog was bred to do?

- What behaviour issues am I willing to work on and what is a deal breaker?

- Do I have children and is this dog acquainted with kids?

- Do I have time for training and integration?

- What type of health concerns am I prepared to deal with immediately?

Choosing to rescue is indeed saving a life but it is not the right choice for everyone. Choosing a reputable breeder can be just as difficult. Dogs live between 9 and 18 years. This choice will affect you and your family for some time to come. Do not make a rushed decision and consider contacting a dog trainer to help you make that decision.

Where's Your Sit? offers pre-adoption consults where we can help assess what kind of dog would be best for you and where you should acquire your dog.

Blog entry coming next on choosing a good breeder. Not all breeders care about the future health of your dog or his/her temperament either. Screening is very important!

Health Care for Dogs

2011-11-11T09:26:00.000-07:00

I get asked A LOT of questions about dogs particularly after someone new learns I am a dog trainer. Often enough people ask me the same ones and truth be told I'm always happy to talk about my favourite topic. I've decided to share some of these FAQ's with my blog readers for your information.

Here's the first one: Why and how often should I take my puppy to the vet when he seems healthy?

Most Veterinarians recommend a yearly check up for all healthy pets just like humans are suppose to see their doctors once per year. Regular check ups are incredibly important for pets because they age much faster than humans and because they don't have a voice to tell you when something is wrong.

When adopting a new pet you should have a vet check preformed whether the dog is old, young, healthy or otherwise. This will give your vet an idea about what your pet's age, general body condition, weight, body temperature and other important information is when your pet is healthy. This can act as a guide to how sick your pet is when something is wrong. It also helps familiarize your pet with the vet clinic and vet him/herself when your pet feels good. This makes treating your pet when he/she is sick much easier.

Another sign for a "healthy" dog to visit the vet is a change in behaviour that is not easy to explain. This includes: accidents in the house, more frequent urination, anxiety, aggression, lethargy and loss of appetite. Many of the cases of aggression I see also include a health issue. This should make you think twice before implementing a punishment for behaviour you see as "naughty" when your dog might actually be feeling under the weather. A full vet check up including bloodwork is a must.

Your Veterinarian is a great resource and it's important you find someone that you like and trust. Personally I see 4 different vets with my dogs depending on the issue. Ask your friends and family to see who they use. Ask questions like how long have you been seeing your vet, do you like him/her, have they offered you practical advice that works? Luckily Calgary has many vets to choose from so take your time to research and find someone that is kind to you and your dog.

Solutions for Canine Anxiety

2011-11-10T10:19:00.001-07:00

I've seen an increasing amount of clients lately who are struggling with their dog's anxiety issues. Concerns include fear of storms, strangers, other dogs, areas in the home, walks once it's dark outside and being home alone.

While anxiety concerns in dogs can be complex here are a few solutions to help your best friend out:

1. Create a Regular Routine

Just like kids, dogs need to be able to predict what's going happen in their day. This does not mean to live life by an exact schedule (ie. the dog eats every morning at 6am) but it does mean that your dog understands that certain events take place in order (ie. bathroom break, breakfast, walk, etc.) so they know what to expect. Dogs should also have a regular bed time and an over tired dog should get naps.

2. Feed a Balanced and Healthy Diet

A poor diet can affect your dog's mood significantly. While the jury is still out on what the best food is to feed your dog here are a few recommendations; pick a high quality dog food instead of a grocery store product, consult with a nutrition expert (may or may not be a veterinarian), read a book on canine nutrition so you know what to look for and consider alternative diets such as raw or home made which can be a great solution for some dogs. Every dog is different and sometimes you have to try a few different options. My 4 dogs all eat differently: Russ gets Go Natural Salmon & Rice kibble supplemented with veggies, Heidi gets Go Natural White Fish or Wellness Core wet food with rice, veggies, yogurt, flax and vitamin C, and both Marco and Tank get a mixed raw food diet which is partially home made. Do your research and figure out what's best for your dog.

3. Keep Your Own Anxiety Under Control

Owners that are also experiencing high levels of anxiety can affect their dogs. It's important to be as relaxed as possible especially when exposing your dog to something they worry about. Some interesting products that can help both humans and dogs include Rescue Remedy, soothing music, exercise and plenty of sleep.

4. Contact a Trainer versed in Anxiety

Not all dog trainers know about anxiety issues in dogs. Contact a variety of trainers when looking for help. Dog trainers who have their CPDT-KA designation have passed an exam that includes an Animal Behaviour component. Or a trainer who has experienced in this field and has taken the time to attend seminars about this type of issue. Anxiety issues should never be addressed using coercive or forceful methods.

A few great products:

1. DAP collars, sprays or diffusers (stands for Dog Appeasement Pheromone) and is available through most vet clinics and the Calgary Humane Society.

2. Thunder Shirts, now available through most pet stores including Global Pet Foods and Mungo's Books for Dog People.

3. Through a Dog's Ear CD, available at the Calgary Humane Society, Mungo's Books for Dog People and of course online.

4. Rescue Remedy, great for people and dogs! Available at most health stores.

Here's Dexter one of Where's Your Sit?'s clients. Dexter is scared of bath time so he can be seen here getting more comfortable with the bath tub. Where's Your Sit? has a variety of classes and private training options to help anxious or fearful dogs.

Tips for a Successful Halloween

2011-10-31T11:08:00.000-06:00

Halloween is a stressful time for some dog families. If your pooch gets wild every time the doorbell rings then Halloween can really be a nightmare. Here's a few tips to settle down fido.

#1 - Take your pup out for a lengthy walk before the Trick or Treaters start their night. This will allow your dog to burn some energy beforehand and hopefully lower his/her arousal level.

#2 - Secure your dog in an area of the house that is away from the door. This will keep the kids and your dog safe. No one wants your pup to accidently end up on the loose!

#3 - A member of the household should hang out with the dog during the evening and reward all calm behaviour. If your dog is offering a sit or a down then give him/her a treat. Wait for your pooch to repeat the calm behaviour and pay again! Before long your pup might learn that doorbell = lie down. Wouldn't that be great?

#4 - For dogs with anxiety a spray of Rescue Remedy or DAP might be the answer before the kids start to show up. A thunder shirt can also be useful.

#5 - Worse case scenerio turn your lights off and spend your evening playing with your pooch.

Good luck everyone!

5 Tricks to Teach Any Dog

2011-09-26T16:11:00.000-06:00

Not everyone wants a perfectly obedient companion but all dogs need certain essential skills to keep them and the people around them safe. Here's my suggestions for "must haves" in doggy skills:

#5 - Leave It

The all important skill of relinquishing objects or food (or anything else a dog might want to grab). This will help prevent bites, ruined possessions and keep your dog safe from consuming dangerous items left lying around. Luckily leave it as an easy skill to teach and most dogs are quite happy to trade!

#4 - Stay

Essential for doorways, greeting visitors, a moment when you have to drop your leash, going up and down stairs. Really there's no limit to what stay can do for you. A good, full proofed stay is absolute must have for many dogs and owners. Stay takes some time and effort to teach but is well worth your while.

#3 - Walking On Leash

A dog that walks well on leash is a dog that gets lots of walks and socialization. Walks are a crucial part of keeping both a dog and owner happy. Teaching your dog not to pull you down the street is something every dog walker can apperciate.

#2 - Quick Down or Drop command

Having a cue word that immediately stops your dog while running or jumping can help de-escalte any situation where your dog is over excited. This one needs to be taught in small steps.

#1 - Coming When Called

To me this is the number one skill ANY dog needs. It can be a lifesaver!

How Obedience Skills Are Used During Everyday Walks...

2011-09-08T09:10:00.000-06:00

Last night I took the crew out for a run around 9pm. We chose a long stretch of grass that allows the dogs to really run and play. The grass is directly beside a road that sees moderate traffic although it was late at night. Our neighbourhood also includes rabbits, cats and the occassional coyote.

Here's where obedience skills made our walk safe and fun. We saw a cat right after leaving the front door. A simple "watch" cue told my dogs that they should be focused on me instead. We used our loose leash walking skills to make it over to the grass and as a result I wasn't pulled or hauled around.

Before taking the dogs off leash they were asked for a sit stay. This gives me to do a once over of the area before giving them freedom. It also gives me a chance to practice sit stay (with a real life reward of play for completing the task).

Once off leash we needed to use "recall" aka "come" a few times when the Aussies went too far. Remember it's dark out so I wanted to make sure I could always see them. They also discovered various pieces of garbage that I didn't need to touch since they all know "leave it" means forever.

Occassionally when I saw headlights coming it was time for everyone to offer a down stay. This keeps my dogs safely near me and away from traffic. If I had had a beginner dog with me it would have been the perfect chance to practice leash on (and then showing the dog that they can be unleashed again once the car is past which makes putting on the leash a non-issue). My dogs are taught to hold stay until I release them verbally with an "all done".

The entire walk took about 30-40 minutes. They practiced almost all their basic obedience commands. We didn't use any additional reinforcers (aka food, toys, etc) because I had the best reward available (running free and playing with each other). Remember that obedience is a way of life and not just a class you take when your dog is young. Practice all the time and incorporate it into any activity you do with your dog. Make playing "obedience" the best game and you'll have a dog that can listen anywhere.

Thunder Storm Season

2011-08-08T19:48:00.000-06:00

I've received a number of inquiries about dogs and storms. So I thought I would introduce a product that works really well for some dogs:

Thunder Shirts!

http://www.thundershirt.com/

If your dog is suffering from severe storm anxiety (self injuring, dangerous to other, distressed) please contact a positive reinforcement trainer, behaiourist or your veterinarian for assistance.

Why Does My Dog Go Crazy On Leash?

2011-07-26T08:25:00.001-06:00

Increasingly pet owners are complaining about dogs that seem to go crazy on leash when they see other dogs, people or wildlife but are fine off leash. So what's going on?

Dogs are inherently social creatures and like to investigate their world. When off leash they can determine how to approach (distance, speed, posture, if to approach at all, etc) but we add a leash to the situation and suddenly the dog has no choices at all. Add in the fact that very few humans that are aware of dog body language and social behaviour and there's disaster. Scared dogs learn that they are forced to interact with unknowns in their environment in an unpleasant way. Hyper/friendly dogs learn that they can't get access to exciting stimuli and become frustrated.

And then leash reactivity happens. That's the behaviour where a dog is at the end of his/her leash barking/lunging/growling, etc or running around in circles with the same results. Most of the time the owners are really embarrassed and don't know what to do.

This is definitely the time to call in a positive reinforcement trainer to help you come up with a plan. Fearful dogs will need different protocols than hyper/friendly dogs. A good dog trainer can spot the difference where most people can't. Sometimes a very scared dog looks hyper or aggressive. You won't get anywhere if you can't tell the difference.

Many training academies will offer special classes for dogs with these issues but I highly recommend you start with private one on one training. A lot of the work can start right in the home.

My own Miniature Schnauzer Heidi came to me as a fearful reactive dog. She would bark and have a fit at anything that moved (people, dogs, cats, birds, bikes, skateboards, leaves, etc). You wouldn't know it today. We worked slowly on desensitizing her to each environmental fear (and I mean slowly as it took well over a year) and at the same time participated in confidence building activities and fine tuned her obedience skills. Heidi now helps me work with other fearful reactive dogs as she can be a relaxing prescence. That's success! Help is out there and the longer you wait the worse it tends to get.

Dog Training & Punishment

2011-07-19T08:19:00.001-06:00

For some reason many people would rather "correct" or punish behaviour rather than simply teach an alternative. This was the way dogs were trained over 20 years ago but a lot has changed! So when is punishment approrpriate and what kind of punishment should be used?

It's important to note that dogs have the mental capacity of an 18 month old child (all dogs) and they do not do things out of spite. They live in the moment and generally follow their instincts. A dog pees on the carpet because in that particular moment it feels good. Later on he might "look" guilty but that would be the dog offering appeasement gestures because he may have learned that when you come home then he gets in trouble. The association between house soiling and your anger is not made.

There are times when punishment is appropriate. I highly recommend using something called "negative punishment" in dog trainer lingo. The negative stands for taking something away rather than "positive punishment" which means to do something to the dog.

Negative punishment works by taking away what your dog wants. Here's a few examples:

#1 - your dog jumps on you then you walk away from him (taking yourself away is a form of punishment because your dog wants you).

#2 - your dog nips your child's hand while excited so you remove him from the room and give him a "time out". In this case you are removing social interaction.

#3 - as you approach the dog park your pooch goes crazy in the car. You respond by either waiting in the car and ignoring him until he settles OR driving away. Your dog learns that barking/lunging does not get him access to the park.

When training dogs my motto has always been teach them what you actually want them to do. Therefore if my dog was jumping on me then I would teach him to sit for attention/petting and use negative punishment if I needed to. The combination of teaching them what you want and taking away what they want can ensure great results and a happy, well balanced dog.

If your dog is having trouble learning what you want then you should contact a positive reinforcement trainer in your area for assistance. Some dogs have a hard time learning certain skills or just don't understand.

So the next time your dog is doing something wrong ask yourself these questions:

Why is my dog doing this? (And don't answer because he's stubborn)

What do I want my dog to do instead?

What can I take away if he doesn't offer the right behaviour?

Please contact Where's Your Sit if you have questions about training. Remember to use a force free approach and put your creative thinking cap on to problem solve!

Sweet Dog looking for her Forever Home

2011-06-17T09:46:00.000-06:00

One of my friends has been fostering a very sweet dog for a long time now. I'm hoping to help find her a home. Sadly black dogs are often overlooked when people consider adoption so please give "Dingo" a chance.

The Dingo.

Roughly 3-3.5yrs old.

Around 65lbs, lean but tall.

Up to date on shots. Spayed.

Housetrained. Crate trained, and really loves it.

Good with kids, prefers non-toddlers, though she did alright with a few she has met.

Great with other dogs, I would prefer a home with another dog for her.

Ok with dog-savy cats, took time to warm up to my cats.. but my cats already LOVE dogs (NOT tolerate dogs) and they eventually won her over with affection. Not sure how she would be around "catty" cats LOL!

Sheds twice a year really well for a couple weeks, but rest of the year she hardly sheds anything, lower shed than any of my smooth coated dogs, I loved it!

Is really good for grooming. Brushing. Furminating. Nail Trim. Ear clean. Teeth clean.

Very calm in the house. Gentle and occasionally still timid personality. Does like to get goofy though and wrestle on occasion. Likes to snuggle and get belly rubs. "Roos" when she gets excited.

Almost has a greyhound type mellow disposition, yet ALWAYS attentive and vigilante.

Many guesses to her breed. Had several people including a competitive dog sport breeder tell me she has Dutch Shepherd in her. This woman bred and competed with Dutch Shepherds and
wouldn't leave me alone about it. We don't know for sure though, we just call her The Dingo!

She has been with me over a year. Was a very very scared girl when I got her. Would hide under furniture at new noises or people. However always LOVED interacting with other dogs. Living with a posse of boisterous pits has done her good! Was at PetExpo end of March this year and LOVED all the people and commotion probably more than me truthfully. She tried out a treadmill, met countless people and dogs, and at the end of the day was still soliciting affection from strangers! Excellent!

This dog is doing really well and its time for her to find her forever home so I have time to help new needy dogs!

Please message for more info on her, or to meet her!
pitbullhugger@hotmail.com

Raw Dog Food & Awesome Treats

2011-06-15T09:22:00.000-06:00

My Adventure Dog class was asking me where I got my dried Lung and Tripe treats last night so I thought I would share. In Calgary we're lucky enough to have an awesome business called Back to Basics. I actually get almost all my dog food from them and a far amount of treats. They also carry raw food for cats.

Check them out here: http://www.backtobasicsrawpetfood.com/

Fearful Dogs

2011-06-13T11:54:00.000-06:00

I recently got back home from a seminar in Vancouver to see Nicole Wilde, CPDT-KA. Nicole is a very respected dog trainer with a background in wolves and wolf-dogs. Over two days we examined "Fearful Dogs" and "Creative Client Coaching".

I wanted to share some of the information I learned about Fearful Dogs. Nicole also has a great book on this topic: Help For Your Fearful Dog. I highly recommend it for anyone who has a dog that needs help in this area.She has also written a book specifically on Separation Anxiety which is a must read for anyone dealing with that particular issue.

There are different types of fears: anxiety, fears and phobias. Anxiety is not dependent on a specific trigger or cause. My own Miniature Schnauzer has anxiety which makes her fears worse. A fear is a response to a specific trigger such as a dog who is scared of men. Phobias are a profound reaction (out of proportion) to an actual threat. Learned fears are the easiest to undo while anxiety and phobias are much more difficult.

Root causes of fearful behaviour include genetics, lack of early socialization, abuse, traumatic experience, learned or associative fears and pain/illness. It's important to note that even if we can't pinpoint what might have caused the fear initially there's still help.

When training your own dog you need to be aware of how he/she is feeling and responding. It's not uncommon for dogs in group classes to be displaying fearful/anxious behaviour and the owner misinterprets it as stubborn or aggressive. Many dogs who are fearful will actually shut down and just stop moving/offering any behaviour. If your dog is fearful or anxious then he/she will not be able to learn. I highly recommend private training or a fearful dog class for dogs with these issues.

When Heidi first arrived in my life we spent 6 weeks in a group class where she hid under my chair the entire time. I decided to ride it out with her and offered her treats (which took until class #5 for her to accept). We eventually graduated with 0 new obedience skills but at least she would come out from under the chair. I opted to enroll her in agility after that and she did great with time, encouragement and positive reinforcement. I never force Heidi to do anything since that is more likely to increase her fearful behaviour. She was never being stubborn but was simply too fearful to work. Even to this day if we're at an agility trial or a new class if she gives me signals that she isn't feeling alright then we either head home or move to a quiet space to chill out.

The Importance of Motivation

2011-05-18T10:12:00.001-06:00

Last night my Adventure Dog class got to see how much MOTIVATION matters in dog training (well really in training anyone including people). I'd love to say that this one type of treat works for every dog in every situation but of course motivation is based on individual preferance, environmental context and of course other factors such as whether your dog is full, tired, thirsty, etc.

When working with your dog try to have a few different types of reinforcers with you. I generally bring some kibble, some higher value treats (Zuke's Minis, Rollover, Dried Liver, Drive Tripe), a ball (Chuck It ball works great), tug toy (Skinneezz work great too especially the rabbit for some reason) and of course my own happy energy level. It's also a good idea to make water available as a thirsty dog really isn't too interested in much else at that point.

Using the right reinforcer can change your entire training session. It can make the difference between a distracted dog that won't listen and a star student. Make reinforcement random so your dog doesn't get bored (or worse expectant) and change it up.

You can make yourself the reward by teaching your dog hand targets, tricks that he/she loves to preform, praise, petting, running with your pup and more. Having a good attitude and energy level will keep your dog happily working for you. Sometimes patience is hard to find and that's when I would end a training session.

Keep training sessions short with lots of breaks for play and running. This keeps your dog interested and wanting to work. If I do a down stay for 3 minutes and then reward my dog he's going to want to do it again even if it's sometimes boring like a down stay BUT we'll generally do something else first to keep the energy and enthusiasm up. This will allow you to train anywhere and without food and toys once your dog gets it.

I worked with aussies Tank and Marco during an off leash walk last night surronded by other dogs. We practiced 1 down stay, 1 sit stay, 1 off leash heeling (just Marco), 2 left finishes and 1 front. All for the chance to run around with me and jump in the air for hand targets. I kept it fun and they were attentive as a result. They were able to do this surronded by a million fun things like dogs, people, smelling, squirrels and it didn't matter because the training session was fun not arduous.

Dog Bite Prevention Week

2011-05-09T10:28:00.002-06:00

It's Dog Bite Prevention Week and statistics show that the majority of bites are from a known dog and the victim tends to be a child more often than not. Many dog bites are entirely preventable.

So that brings us into our first topic: Safety Tips for Kids!

#1 - Teach your children about canine body language. They need to know when a dog is friendly and relaxed, when he/she is exhibiting anxiety or is on the offensive. Some dogs are harder to read and it's the parent's responsibility to supervise children with any dogs. A great video on body language is Sarah Kalnajs' Language of Dogs.

#2 - When greeting a strange dog children should ask the owner if it's alright. If the owner gives consent the child should hold still and let the dog come to the child on his/her own. If a child runs right up to even a very friendly canine it can trigger an anxiety response or an excited arousal response. Both should be prevented. Letting the dog approaches allows the dog to make the decision and keeps the greeting "polite" in dog language. If the dog is hyper or excited then the child should not meet the dog.

#3 - Teach your kids how to pet a dog. Hugs are NEVER appropriate even with the family dog. Most dogs hate hugs and it puts your child's face right in bite range. Hugging is also considered to be a confrontational posture to most dogs.

#4 - If you and your kids frequent areas where dogs are allowed to run off leash then teach your child to play the "Be a Tree" game. Arms need to come right against the body and eye contact should avoided. Screaming needs to be avoided since it can heighten arousal significantly. Also discourage running when a strange dog is approaching as it can excite a chase response.

In an ideal world dogs would be highly socialized to children and have obedience skills such as "come", "off" and "leave it" but sadly not all owners spend the time teaching their dogs. Parents need to make sure they keep their children safe by teaching them how to be dogwise whether you have your own dog or not. Dogs are still animals and are not always predictable.

The best solution to dog bites is educating both Parents, Kids and Dogs. If everyone does their part then bites can be significantly reduced.

Where's Your Sit runs socialization and training classes for dogs of all temperments and backgrounds. We also offer a class for kids to take on bite prevention, reading canine body language and which dogs to pet. Dogs can be a valuable part of any child's life teaching empathy, compassion and giving them a friend who will always listen and keep their secrets. Let's keep everyone safe.

Train with Toys!

2011-05-06T15:12:00.000-06:00

So when most people think about positive reinforcement training they think food and praise BUT really it can be anything your dog considers good and every dog is different so the list varies. One of the best reinforcers can be play.

Most dog owners who train for dog sports like Obedience or Agility discover training with toys early on but many regular pet owners miss the boat using exlusively treats or praise. So you ask how do you train with toys? It's easy and we'll go over some concepts now.

Recall - Teaching Your Dog to Come

1. Start in your yard or home. Use a toy that your dog really likes. Some of my favourites are chuck-it balls or skinneez (stuff animals with squeakers but no stuffing). The toy you pick for training should only be available to your dog during the training session. As soon as your done put it away so it maintains a high value for your dog.

2. Call your dog "come" and run away from your dog. When he/she catches you pull out the toy and either throw the ball or play tug with your dog. The more exciting you can be the better.

3. If you've thrown the ball reward your dog with a treat if he/she brings it back. Don't focus on the retrieve part since you are practicing recall at this moment.

Heeling

1. Same concept as recall. Use a special toy only for training and otherwise put it away.

2. You can start by holding the toy on the side you wish your dog to walk on and get him/her to focus on it while moving forward.

3. When your dog takes a few steps in heel position stop and play.

4. Stop the game, get your dog to take more steps and then stop and play again.

A ball can be held in your arm pit and occassionally dropped for your dog to grab. A tug toy can be easily held in your hand or pocket and brought out spontaneously.

Any skill you teach with food or praise can also be taught by playing. Remember it's important to teach your dog "leave it" so you can get the toy back in order to keep practicing.

I'll upload some YouTube videos shortly using toys as rewards so you can get a better concept of the idea. In all the classes at Where's Your Sit we suggest using toy rewards along with food, praise and petting. One of my dogs prefers toys as his BEST reward even over really good treats.

Look forward to our next entry on how to create "toy drive" in a dog that doesn't play naturally.

CARO Trial & CGN Results

2011-04-17T18:45:00.001-06:00

Jade had a great weekend with both Russ and Marco at the CARO Trial and CGN test at Hyper Hounds.

Russ earned his Canine Good Neighbour title with great focus and finess. It took me awhile to get him tested due to scheduling and training but once tested he proved what I knew all along... he's a good neighbour! Our next goal will be to get in some rally practice so he can try his paws in the ring.

Marco earned his Canine Good Neighbour and Rally Novice title this weekend. He's only 16 months old and this was his first time in the preformance ring (only conformation classes before this). While we had a few "puppy" moments he tried hard and pulled out some great scores for us. He showed his great work ethic and most of all his willingness to please. We'll be heading to some CKC shows in the future and try out rally in that venue before tackling any Advanced courses. Marco continues to train for both formal obedience and agility.

This was my first rally trial too and while a little nerve racking at first it was a great learning experience. I learned a lot about how I want my dogs to work with me and what I can polish with my puppy. Getting in the ring isn't an easy thing to do but was completely worth while. There's no better feeling than working as a team with your dog (even with a few mistakes in there!).

I highly recommend taking a few rally classes before hitting up a show. We have some fantastic training facilities in Calgary where you can take lessons and get familiar with the signs. I highly recommend Hyper Hounds and All Bright Dogs for lessons. Both head trainers compete themselves and have been involved with the sport for many years (they're also judges).

Local Dog Trainer Earns Certification As Certified Professional Dog Trainer - Knowledge Assessed

2011-04-15T13:59:00.000-06:00

Calgary, Alberta (April 15, 2011) - Local dog trainer, Jade Robertson, BA CPDT-KA of Calgary, Alberta has earned certification through the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT). Jade joins nearly 2000 Certificants worldwide.

Until the creation of the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers in 2001, there was no true certification process for canine professionals. Many schools teach dog trainers and offer certifications for their specific programs. These certificates, therefore, reflect the teachings and quality of a specific school. Other organizations offer take-home tests for "certification". These canine professionals are not monitored to ensure they are completing the test without any assistance or collaboration nor is the testing process standardized.

This unprecedented process was originally implemented by the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT), the largest association of dog trainers in the world, founded by noted veterinarian, behaviourist and author Dr. Ian Dunbar. A task force of approximately 20 internationally known dog training professionals and behaviourists worked for three years to research and develop the first comprehensive examination. Professional Testing Corporation (PTC) was hired to ensure the process met professional testing standards. APDT then created a separate, indepdent council -- The Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers -- to manage the accreditation and pursue future development.

Candidates who pass the exam earn the title of Certified Professional Dog Trainer - Knowledge Assessed and may use the designation "CPDT-KA" after their names. All certified trainers must earn continuing education credits to maintain their designations or take the examination again in three years.

What's Rally Obedience?

2011-04-14T19:15:00.000-06:00

Marco and I have entered our first Rally Obedience Trial this weekend. It takes place at Hyper Hounds Dog Training (Okotoks, AB) and runs on both Saturday and Sunday.

Many of my students have asked what is Rally Obedience? And then why I should consider doing it with me dog?

Rally Obedience (often referred to as Rally O) is a relatively new sport for dogs. It has been around for about 10 years now. The sport was developed by the Association of Pet Dog Trainers and has spread to other organizations including AKC, CKC and CARO (Canadian Association of Rally Obedience). The sport is a mix of formal obedience moves (heeling, turns, sits, downs, stays, etc.) but uses the fun of agility by creating courses. There are about 20 signs on a course that an owner and dog need to complete. Dogs of all breeds and ages may take part.

Now why should you consider taking a Rally O class with your dog?
Simply put it's a fun way to learn obedience skills that you need. The most critical skill is heeling and rally participants spend a lot of time working on that. You'll also develop quicker response to commands, enhance your bond with your dog and learn to tackle distractions. It's also a great start before taking on an agility class.

Also in CARO and APDT trials owners are allowed to use food rewards on course. This makes it a great place to get dog some ring experience and learn to build up focus.

So come out and watch the trial this weekend. If you have questions please let me know.

Interactive Toys

2011-03-28T16:01:00.002-06:00

Kong posted a great YouTube video on how to use their toys.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZjtDgVy7E1A

Other great toys include:
Buster Cube
Tricky Treat Balls
Treat Stick
Busy Buddies

But He Knows This! Why dogs forget training and what to do about it.

2011-03-20T11:02:00.001-06:00

All the students have arrived at class and we begin working on a sit stay exercise. The students ask their dogs to sit and then tell them to stay. We wait 10 seconds and then reward and release the dogs. Should be fairly easy for an advanced class right? Well not always. Sometimes a dog just doesn’t stay or worse yet seems to have forgotten what sit means! So what’s happening?

A couple of different scenarios might be going on. My first guess would be that the dog isn’t motivated. Clearly he/she knows what sit means and probably at this point what stay means but is choosing not to perform the expected behaviour. It doesn’t mean the dog has forgotten the commands. Pamela Reid Ph.D. explains this as learning/performance distinction. She states that a “whether or not a behaviour is performed depends on a lot of things: opportunity, motivation, physical abilities, and learning”1. This means that just because a dog doesn’t do what he/she is told doesn’t mean that he/she doesn’t know how to do it.

A crucial part of training is maintaining a behaviour/command. This means you have to practice, use reinforcers that matter to your dog at that moment in time and you back up any command with getting the desired behaviour. All too often owners expect the dogs to hear sit, sit, sit all day long without reinforcement (or even actually getting the dog to sit at all) which tells the dog that this command doesn’t matter.

Performing a Sit Stay in class:

Have you given your dog a chance to respond before double commanding, asking for a sit before you have focus or physically putting your dog in a sit ?
Why should your dog sit/stay? What’s in it for them? And don’t say because he/she loves me.
Is my dog injured, sick or anxious? I found out that my dog Tank stopped sitting because of a knee injury, good thing I didn’t jump into punishment mode on him!
Have I taught my dog how to sit and stay in this environment? Should I go back a few steps?

The same thing can happen with house training. It snows out and the dog suddenly starts peeing in the house. The dog is no longer motivated to go outside since most owners stop rewarding house training fairly quickly by sending their dog outside alone and further more we add some unpleasant conditions .The rug starts to look like an ideal bathroom. Now what do you do? Go back to the basics and head outside with your dog. Occasionally reward them for going outside with praise, petting, treats or games. This will provide the motivation for your dog to go outside (even in the cold), do their business and keep you happy.

Performing Eliminating Outside:

Has your dog had the opportunity to go out regularly or did you leave it too long?
Is your dog motivated to go to the bathroom outside or have you completely stopped rewarding it?
Is your dog sick?My dog Heidi started peeing in her sleep and we discovered it was from a hormone imbalance. Once she was on Estrogen she no longer peed inside.
Have you properly trained your dog where to go to the bathroom? Confusion ensues if you switch between indoor bathroom areas/outdoor bathroom areas?

So you can see how regression occurs and why dogs sometimes don’t perform behaviours we previously thought were rock solid. This happens to everyone! Don’t get upset just take a breath and ask yourself why this might be happening? Go through whether you gave the dog the right opportunities to do what you want, is your dog motivated or physically unable to do what you want and have you trained/maintained your dog to continue to do this behaviour?

1 Reid, Pamela J. Ph.D., Excel-erated Learning: Explaining how dogs learn and how best to teach them. James & Kenneth Publishers, 1996.

Vaccines, Puppies & Socialization

2011-03-07T14:13:00.001-07:00

Since spring is on the way and many of my clients are getting puppies it's time to have a post about puppy vaccines and socialization.

Many breeders choose to give the first vaccine between 6 and 8 weeks. Generally families choose to continue a 2nd or 3rd set of shots. This means that your puppy is only fully vaccinated after their window of socialization closes! Puppies who are kept away from other dogs and people during this time increases their risk of developing serious behaviour issues.

So what's a good puppy parent to do? Well it depends on who you ask. I chose to take my puppy Marco to many places throughout the city before he had finished his vaccine protocol (chosen by my vet and myself). Marco went to an off leash park in an area of the city that's not too busy and not associated with diseases such as Parvo or Distemper. It was a calculated risk. We also went to pet stores, transit stations, banks, friends' homes and on leash walks. I made sure to keep him away from feces.

If you want to be a bit more cautious then attending puppy parties where all attendees have had their first set of shots at least 1 week before can be a great option. You can also call friends' with vaccinated dogs to come visit and take your puppy to them too.

Also don't forget about the many puppy socialization classes in Calgary! Veternarians Margaret M. Duxbury DVM, DACVB and R.K. Anderson DVM, DACVPM, DACVB did a study over 3 years that included data from across the United States. This study showed that no cases of parvo-distemper dises in puppies attending specific early socialization classes. The puppies completed 22,147 weeks of puppy class exposure with no associated illness. So there`s no excuse not to get your puppy out there!

Good Behaviour for Dog Owners at Off Leash Parks

2011-03-04T15:21:00.001-07:00

Alright everyone I had a pretty unpleasant experience at the off leash park yesterday and as a result I thought I would do a post on what dog owners should know about these parks; sometimes what I consider common sense doesn't seem to be so common.

#1 Don't take your dog off leash if you can't control him/her (a good recall is imperative)

#2 Don't take your dog off leash if he/she has a history of aggression with dogs or people

>> try using empty fenced ball parks for runs or go to a large, empty area such as Nose Hill on a weekday to give your dog a good run.

#3 Watch your dog and the other dogs around your dog, if the play is looking a little "iffy" then recall your dog

#4 Dogs in season should NEVER go to the off leash park. It's highly dangerous so take your pretty lady for a good, on leash walk in a designated on leash area. If you are not familiar with proper responisble care of an intact dog please spay/neuter.

#5 Pick up after your dog so that everyone can enjoy the park

#6 Don't let your dog chase kids, bicycles or joggers. We need to share off leash zones safely.

#7 Don't bring dog toys if your dog doesn't share; go somewhere else to play ball if this is the case. Definitely don't bring dog toys with food in them!

#8 Teach your dog how to greet people by sitting so he/she doesn't jump up on other park users.

#9 Remember that not all dogs get along and that's alright. Make sure your large dog isn't jumping all over a timid small one or your young dog might be harassing an older dog. Simply recall your dog and walk the other way.

#10 Don't take your dog off leash in on leash areas. Just because your dog is friendly doesn't mean everyone else's is. There's nothing more frigtening for an owner of a dog who is aggressive to see an off leash dog running towards them (and calling out that your dog is friendly doesn't help!).

All breeds, ages and genders of dogs should be able to use off leash areas if they are social with dogs and people. Not all dogs are. Please make sure your dog will be safe in that type of environment.

Give Up The Food Bowls!

2011-03-01T21:35:00.000-07:00

It's cold out there and you need to keep your dog busy since long walks are clearly not an option!

One of the first things I tell all my training clients is to give up their dog food bowls. They need things to do and simply putting their food in a dish does a disservice to you and your dog! There's loads of products out there that can make meal times interactive. Some of my favourites include Kong, Buster Cube and Tricky Treat Ball.

Start your day by splitting your dog's food into two portions. One half should be used for interactive toys which your dog can play with while you're at work. Imagine he/she is getting mental stimulation while you're not even home! Interactive toys are to dogs what books and puzzles are for people. The other half of their food should be used for training. Remember training doesn't have to be all stays and sits it can also be tricks like roll over and play dead. There are so many options out there when it comes to what you can train your pet to do.

Use their food to your advantage and have a happier, healthier dog as a result!

Sit For Greeting

2011-02-11T12:54:00.001-07:00

Have a dog that jumps up on everyone he/she meets? Learn how to teach a sit for greeting.

The first thing you need to ask yourself is: has my dog been reinforced for jumping up? Do you pat your dog when he/she jumps up? Do other people? Do you push your dog off of you and reprimand? Have you used your knees or legs to kick him/her? Have other people?

What you need to know about reinforcement is that good or bad reinforcement can encourage a behaviour. So it doesn't matter whether I'm petting my dog for jumping up or pushing him/her off of me. My dog is still being reinforced for jumping. Makes things harder doesn't it?

Alright here's a few steps to get you on the right track and remember practice makes perfect!

Step #1 - teach your dog to sit on voice command or hand signal but without touching your dog. It's crucial that you have this basic obedience command down pat.

Step #2 - begin to practice sit around more and more distractions. Ask for sit and then as soon as that butt hits the floor reward. Practice this at doorways, on walks, in the park, around friends, etc.

Step #3 - when you come home from being out don't make eye contact or speak to your dog until he/she sits (without a command). As soon as your best friend is sitting then shower with praise, toy, pets, food, etc. If he/she jumps go back to ignoring. For those really high energy dogs keep your vocal praise low key so you don't trigger the jumping up again from excitement.

Step #4 - start to add friends/family to training session. Have your dog take a sit position before the person even becomes visible. Reinforce continually to keep your dog sitting (meaning giving a kibble or treat every few seconds). As long as the dog is sitting the person can come closer. If the dog gets up then the person immediately needs to back up and leave. You then start again. Eventually the person will be standing beside the dog while the dog is sitting. You can then have your friend/family member give the dog a treat for sitting. Practice until this is easy.

Step #5 - slowly fade out the food reward until you can do this without food. Meaning over the course of several training sessions use less and less food. If the dog regresses then go back to the basics.

Step #6 - begin to ask your dog for a sit whenever a person comes into view. Over time your dog will learn that he/she is expected to sit when greeting a human. Once your dog is reliable on leash then move to practicing off leash.

If your dog does jump on someone unexpected have the person become a "tree" and if they need to they can turn around so their back is to the dog. This works great for kids.

Separation Anxiety & Why It's So Hard To Fix

2011-02-07T12:40:00.001-07:00

Separation Anxiety is a term used to describe a condition where a dog becomes emotionally distraught when separated from a specific person or persons, or when he/she is left alone (1). This can be mild, moderate or so severe that a dog self injures. I've personally lived with two dogs who had severe separation anxiety and I can't even begin to describe the heart ache that it causes the family and the dog.

Prevention is always the best medicine when it comes to behaviour problems. Some simple steps to keep in mind are not making a big deal out of your coming and going from the home. Your dog shouldn't think that this is a big deal but simply a matter of course on a daily basis. Leave your dog something to do like an interactive toy to play with (stuffed Kong, Tricky Treat Ball or Buster Cube). And exercise your dog before a prolonged period of time away.

A great read on preventing separation anxiety is I'll Be Home Soon by Patricia McConnell. You can order this book from Dogwise Publishing. It has steps for treating separation anxiety as well and can be useful to those of you dealing with the mild form of this issue.

Dogs suffering from moderate to severe anxiety will present with house soiling, uncontrollable barking/howling, destructive behaviour, drooling, panting, pacing, self injuring, etc. It is important to get advice from a professional about whether your dog has separation anxiety or is merely bored when left alone. This behaviour issue is often misdiagnosed by owners when a dog destroys objects in the house or amuses himself/herself by barking. A video camera or web camera can help show the true story about what goes on when you're away.

If you are experiencing separation anxiety then it's important to contact an Animal Behaviourist (if possible) or a Dog Trainer with experience resolving this issue. You will also need to consult your Veterinarian as dogs suffering from this issue often need medication while behaviour modification is taking place.

A newly released book by Certified Pet Dog Trainer Nicole Wilde called Don't Leave Me! is a great resource for dog owners who are struggling with this issue. It is also available through Dogwise Publishing. This book outlines how to create a custom plan for your dog and put it in action.

Sadly separation anxiety isn't always curable so plans should be made for petsitters, dog daycare and friends/family who can help. It can take months to years to get your dog to a healthy state even with assistance from a professional. Dogs with this issue need to slowly be desensitized to being alone which takes a large commitment from the owner. Don't be disheartened as many dogs do improve with positive reinforcement, love and patience.

Please be aware that adding another dog to the home often does not help with this issue. Sometimes the anxiety can even be passed over to the new dog.

Some great products that can help with separation anxiety include:
- Through A Dog's Ear CD
- Thunder Shirt
- Interactive Toys such as Kong, Tricky Treat Ball & Buster Cube
- Dog Appeasement Pheromone Collar or Spray (Available from your Veterinarian)

Resources:
1. Wilde, Nicole. Don't Leave Me: Step by Step Help For Your Dog's Separation Anxiety. Phantom Publishing, 2010.

Why Does Touching My Dog Make Him Hyper?

2011-01-23T11:38:00.000-07:00

Here's the test: begin petting your dog with mid-range pressure. Does he/she do one of the following:
A) Solicit more petting by climbing on you
B) Roll over belly up, lick lips, yawn or look away
C) Energy increases and begins jumping off you
D) Moves Away
E) Some of all the above

Well then your dog probably has some touch sensitivity. Many dogs have touch sensitivity; far more often than people would think.

So one of the things we practice in puppy class and beginner class is touching your dog while feeding him/her. Many people do this exercise once in class and then forget about it. They usually concentrate on stay or leave it or loose leash walking. While all those obedience skills are important they definitely don't outrank having a dog that not only accepts touch but enjoys it.

If your dog enjoys touch you'll find him/her easier to praise/reward, spend time with, handle for grooming, handle for exams, handle in general, accept children who touch harder and inappropriately, and less likely to bite when in pain or taken by surprise. All of those things are crucial for pet dogs.

The good news is you can teach dogs of all ages to enjoy touch more than they already do. Take their breakfast or dinner and use it to teach handling. Get your dog eating out of your hand at a reasonable pace and then add touch. Make sure the dog continues to eat. The moment he/she stops eating take your hand off their body. Start with gentle touch using the back of your hand and then work up to pressure and specific handling (think picking up paws). As long as the dog continues to eat then continue to handle.

This is what we would call Classic Conditioning to teach an animal to accept something they might not like. You combine their food (basic necessity) with a small level of something new or not enjoyable and then slowly increase over time. If you were handle then feed you wouldn't get the same result.

Try this exercise a few times a week for several months and watch the changes in your dog. Once your dog accepts touch readily you can start to combine it with a down stay or sit stay. Remember that if your dog has a history of aggression related to touch then you need to seek out a Veterinarian to rule out medical issues and an experienced, positive reinforcement trainer to help you out.

Ouch! Why Puppies Bite and What To Do About It

2011-01-14T11:38:00.000-07:00

The most common concern I hear about from new puppy owners is "biting". So I thought I would take a moment to explain what this biting is and what to do about it.

Biting (often called Mouthing) in puppies under 6 months is a very normal behaviour. When worked on correctly it should disappear by around 4-5 months and sometimes a little later in retriever breeds and terriers. Why do they do it? Well puppies are trying to learn how to use their mouths. Imagine a two year old child and all the grabbing, hitting and pinching they do as they learn to manipulate objects in their hands. It's the same thing.

It's really important for puppies to learn to use their mouths correctly because as adult dogs we can't have mistakes. Our dogs need to know how much pressure to apply, what they are allowed to put their mouth on and what they aren't. This is one of the reasons many trainers don't recommend playing tug of war with puppies (although I personally think it's alright with the right rules in place).

The rule in my house is no teeth on skin but everyone has their own variation of this. When a puppy begins to mouth me and it hurts I let out a high pitch "ouch" and stand up/walk away. This teaches the puppy that by hurting me he makes go away and the behaviour is anti-social. The majority of normal puppies will want your attention and not drive you away.

Another successful tactic is to give your puppy an appropriate chew object. Great toys include stuff animals without stuffing, kongs/hard rubber toys, ropes and chew sticks (antlers, bully sticks, etc). Sometimes you don't have anything handy so instead try asking your puppy for a "sit" or a "hand target/touch" and get them working.

A great way to teach puppies how to use their mouths is by letting them play with other puppies and accepting adult dogs. There's also an argument for keeping puppies with their mother and siblings longer. Having your puppy stay with a good breeder until 10-12 weeks of age can help with mouthing issues. You just want to make sure they're being socialized at the same time. No one wins if the puppy is just locked up in a pen all day.

There is no one size fits all answer and it is something that goes away with age (if you haven't encouraged it). It's important to remember not to hurt your puppy as you don't want to make him/her afraid to have their mouth handled.

The New Foster Kid: Bailey

2011-01-10T15:53:00.001-07:00

Miss Bailey arrived at my home yesterday evening and has started to settle in. She is a 7 year old Yorkie mix and has had a hard life. Bailey is reportedly from a Puppy Mill and after being retired as a breeding dog she has been unable to find a suitable home. She has been placed twice and neither home worked out. Her first adoptive owner moved after having her for a few short years while her second home had a small child and a cat that were unsuitable for her shy personality. Her second family decided to get help as she clearly needed a new family.

So Bailey has joined my pack and I for some rehabilitation before moving on to her forever home. Her next adopters will be carefully screened to make sure they will be a permanent and exceptional home for this tiny little girl.

Bailey makes a great case study for anyone who owns a shy, timid dog. Her story is sadly altogether common. She missed out on early socialization as a puppy when the people responsible for her kept her locked in a cage. She is therefore terrified of most things: kids, strangers, loud noises and lacks key social skills that would allow her to interact comfortably with other dogs (rather than avoiding them).

The Plan: give Bailey a much needed confidence boost and help her learn new skills that will allow her to be successful with her next family.

How are we going to do that?

The first step is to allow Bailey to settle in and adjust to the new environment. This might take some time, but once she realizes she's safe and my dogs won't bother her, life will get a little easier for her. I help new dogs settle in by setting up a regular daily schedule so she can expect when meals will be, when exercise will happen, when nap time/bed time are and other regular activities. Structure is crucial for anxiety ridden dogs (and good for all dogs). Setting up a structure will also allow us to house train Bailey.

We will also consider a DAP collar and a Thunder shirt for Bailey depending on how she does over the first week. She will also get a vet check up to make sure she has no medical issues that could be affecting her mental state.

Step number two will involve some confidence building. We will begin to work on "hand targeting" which will encourage Bailey to come to my partner and I. We'll be using cheese as a reinforcer for this and a clicker to mark the behaviour. Video to follow.

Bailey will also begin attending a group training class at Where's Your Sit. My partner Douglas has been kind enough to volunteer his time as her handler. We selected a class with dogs all under 20lbs in size. This was done on purpose. Bailey will be introduced to larger dogs but only ones who have already attended obedience classes so that they don't scare her further. My own pack includes 2 medium size dogs that she has already met.

The goal of a group class for her will not be obedience skills. If we expected her to learn sit, down, stay, heel , etc. we would be disappointed. Bailey is going to work on being in the room while the other dogs learn. She will get to meet people and dogs in the class when she is ready. The new environment will be her challenge in this case. Once she's comfortable we can practice the skills she's learning at home like the hand target. She will not be expected to learn anything new in class. When she's more confident we can explore classes for training but this time it's about socialization to a new environment, people and dogs.

Bailey's progress will be posted on the blog and our website. Feel free to ask questions! Also note that we are interviewing potential adopters for Bailey. She will be available to the right new home once she has finished the beginning stage of confidence boosting. Her new family will receive both group and private training lessons through Where's Your Sit as part of her adoption package.

Bailey's Page

One of my Favourite Training Tools

2011-01-01T14:07:00.001-07:00

Since Loose Leash Walking seems to be a major struggle for most dog owners I wanted to take some time and introduce one of my favourite dog walking products: the Gentle Leader. It's fairly well known but I still come across quite a number of frustrated owners who haven't heard of it.

The Gentle Leader works in a similar way to a horse halter/head collar. It fits over the mouth and snaps behind the ears. Dogs can eat, drink and play with it on. It does get mistaken for a muzzle sometimes but don't be fooled; dogs can definitely still bite with it on!

The purpose of the Gentle Leader is to take away the dog's ability to pull. Although no training tool will solve pulling all by itself this one comes the closest. In my opinion it works better than harnesses, choke collars, shock collars or prong collars and is of course humane. I find it works best for medium to large breed dogs such as Australian Shepherds, Labradors, Malamutes, etc. For the smaller dogs I generally recommend a Sensation Harness or an Easy Walk Harness but you can use Gentle Leaders on the small ones too.

The down side to head collars in general is that some dogs simply don't like to wear them (picture your puppy at 8 weeks with his/her first collar and they flail around). You need to start off slow by putting it on, feeding a few treats and then taking it off right away. I recommend doing this a few times and leaving it on just a bit longer each time. After a few days try a walk.

Another thing to keep in mind is that if you have previously used a type of correction collar: martingale, prong or choke chain then you need to be very careful about not "correcting" with the Gentle Leader. You don't want to throw your dog's spine out of wack and it's not meant to be jerked about in a harmful manner. On the bright side if you have damaged your dog's throat by using a correction collar than a Gentle Leader will be safer and more comfortable for your dog to wear.

I've used a Gentle Leader for 3 out of 4 of my own dogs: Russ, Tank and Marco while training them to walk on leash. Tank still likes to wear his. Make sure to combine a Gentle Leader with training (using treats to reinforce heel position, direction changes to keep your dog interested and not moving forward when he/she pulls).

Where's Your Sit runs a special program just for Loose Leash Walking for those of you in the Calgary area struggling with this issue on your otherwise well behaved dog.

How To Use Your "Leave It" Cue

2010-12-21T11:03:00.000-07:00

So many dog owners are now choosing to attend a basic dog training class. They learn skills like sit, down, stay, heel, leave it and recall. Or at least they sort of learn these skills depending on how much they practice. What I have noticed is that even though dogs and their families are learning these cues they aren't sure how or when to use them.

Let's discuss the important Leave It or Mine cue. This means that you've asked your dog to not touch and back off an object such as a treat, toy or person. Many dogs get really good at this as a party trick. I can easily line up treats on my dogs' legs as they look away waiting for a chance to earn one. However Leave It as many real world applications that could help you out.

Here's some examples:

Situation #1
I'm walking my dog down the street and we have to pass another owner and dog. My dog starts to get excited, pull and even bark! I can ask my dog to leave it, focus on me and then heel on or leave it, focus on me and do a sit stay as they pass. So much better than yelling at my dog, yanking on the leash or allowing him to pull me over.

Situation #2
I'm cooking some hamburgers for dinner and one falls off the plate! All four of my dogs do a mad scramble to grab these delectable entry. A good leave it means they all back off and I get my burger back.

Situation #3
My young puppy has grabbed a boot and is playing keep away. He thinks he's being so cute with it. I know that if I chase him he'll never give it up. So instead I ask him to leave it and then call him to me. The boot is left behind, forgotten until I put it away where he can't get it.

Situation #4
I'm at the dog park and of course one of my dogs finds a dead duck sitting near the river. Well I definitely don't want to grab that out of his mouth nor do I want one of my other dogs to dart in and start a tug of war. I ask them to leave it and the finder dog promptly drops the duck and all dogs follow me away from it. I didn't even get my hands dirty and no one ate it.

Situation #5
It's winter and one of the dogs is in the yard eating poop... yes it happens and the jury is still out why they do it. I don't care why right now; I want him to stop it. So I open the door yell out leave it and he drops the yucky stuff.

And there's more you can do with leave it! It's one handy cue word. Leave it can be applied to anything you don't want your dogs to have (objects, people, dogs, garbage, rocks, etc). It can also stop dog fights in the home... for example if one of your dogs is guarding a toy or bone and it is about to trigger a battle. I can easily claim the object by saying leave it and removing it. It saves a lot of trouble!

Remember that if you have a dog that guards things like bones, food or toys you will need to contact a professional trainer or behaviourist to help you. It's very important to understand dog body language when dealing a potentially threatened pet. We don't want to push our dogs to guard or bite us. There's many ways to use desensitization to change that situation around over time.

Contact Where's Your Sit if you want more information on leave it or resource guarding issues. We would be more than happy to help!

Why Dogs Develop Aggression?

2010-12-17T12:15:00.000-07:00

Aggression can mean a lot of different things. Most owners are describing behaviours that they feel are threatening when referring to aggression. Commonly this can be biting where there's an injury, biting where there's no injuring, growling, barking, lunging, air snapping, etc.

Sometimes the reason for "aggressive" behaviour is clear and other times it's not. For many dogs they start with low level behaviour such as growling and progress to more serious threats when they realize that it works. Other dogs may suddenly develop "aggression".

The first step would be to rule out medical issues. An animal in pain will not act like they usually do and might respond to touch in a dramatic fashion. When my dog Tank had a knee injury he began to shown aggressive behaviour when dogs came near that part of his body. He would snarl, growl and even air snap. This was unusual for him and a clear sign that something was wrong.

Another cause for aggression is often fear. This can not be understated. Dogs who are scared will run or fight. We humans unwittingly trap our dogs with leashes, walls, kennels, etc and can trigger a bite when a dog really just wants to avoid.

Dogs can be fearful of anything! Common issues include fear of strangers, kids, loss of a valuable resource (ball, sock, food) and of course other dogs. If we treat aggression (fear) with physical violence or force then we are often pushing the dog to escalate his/her own aggression. A better approach would be to use slow desensitization to the source of the fear so our dogs learn to deal with it.

Aggression is one of those behaviours that needs to be treated with care. It's imperative that you seek help from a professional trainer or behaviourist and veterinarian. For more information please contact Where's Your Sit or the Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT).

Off Leash Awareness

2010-12-07T09:16:00.000-07:00

I have 4 dogs so when we hit the off leash park it would be easy to lose track of them all... however I taught all of my dogs to watch for me too. This means that as we walk they have learned to naturally check where I am and stay close (close has a different meaning for each of the dogs... Russ thinks it means within shouting distance while the others hang out a bit more in eye sight).

Teaching your dog to check in is easy! Once you've mastered a good recall and are ready to be off leash safely you can begin working on this one. Bring some great treats with you and randomly reward your dog for coming back to you on his/her own (you didn't call but they just came back) or making eye contact with you as you walk along.

Over time your dog will begin to check in because it's been reinforced. This means that your dog has decided that you have value and he/she might be rewarded for paying attention rather than being lost in the dog heaven that is the off leash park.

This is particularly important for independent breeds such as your terriers, northern breeds and many rescue dogs. While I don't continue to feed my dogs forever at the park I still continue the practice once in awhile. It's important (especially with a large group) to have dogs that care about your location.

I have found this skill to be extremely useful when we're hiking out in the mountains or walking in a very distracting area. The check in is easy to teach and a must have for off leash walking!

Visitors & Dogs

2010-11-29T10:59:00.000-07:00

The holidays mean that for many of us company will be coming over. For those of us with dogs this can be extremely difficult and frustrating! Every the bell rings the dog becomes more and more excited, jumps all over friends and family and just generally embarrasses you.

Here's a few ideas for welcoming company and showing off your polite pooch:

1. Teach your dog to go to his/her kennel or bed when the bell rings. A kennel works very well because you can shut the dog inside until he/she has calmed down and guests have gotten settled in. Always reward with a treat when you dog goes to his/her "place". This gives your dog a job to do when this exciting event of company occurs. Make sure to practice A LOT when no one is actually at the door by ringing the bell yourself.

2. Teach your dog how to settle. Begin by keeping your dog on leash near you when company is over. Whenever your dog lies down reward with a treat. Before long your pooch will have learned to chill out and handle the room full of friends and family.

3. Teach your dog to sit when greeting people. Practice with several good friends and family members. Ask your dog for a sit/stay and have a person approach. Reward your dog for holding his/her sit. If she/he gets up then have the person back up and start over. Make this a rule for whenever your dog is greeting anyone (yourself, family, kids, strangers, etc).

Remember our dogs want to be part of the fun but sometimes it is best if they stay in their own room or kennel when lots of people are over to celebrate. Dogs with fear or high arousal should be kept separately for their own well being. If in doubt contact a positive reinforcement trainer in your area.
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Where's Your Sit is currently offering a Holiday Manners training program to help your dog learn the skills described above. Visit www.wheresyoursit.com for more information.

Enjoy your dog; don't dominate him!

2010-11-22T11:20:00.001-07:00

Alright I've been putting this one off but it's time to write about the dreaded "dominance" myth that has been so prevalent in Western culture as of late.

Dominance theory is largely based on bad science... that's right folks it's not true! I'll give you a source before I carry on: http://drsophiayin.com/philosophy/dominance/ Dr. Sophia Yin explains this very well with videos to boot!

Yet everyday I see people doing things to their dogs that are not only unnecessary but potentially damaging.

For example you take your lovely, friendly, four legged best friend to the dog park. He/she is happily playing and acting appropriately. Yet some owners feel the need to roll their dog or put them in a long stay for no real understandable reason other than control. This could actually hurt your dog's confidence.

There's no reason not to have solid obedience skills and rules but don't be a tyrant. Dogs want a calm, happy family not an owner with Napoleon syndrome. You can have a well behaved dog without acting that way I promise!

Positive reinforcement training includes setting rules for your dog to live by. For example if you choose to let your dog on the couch then that's fine. Your family has decided dogs on furniture is alright. If you choose not to then that's fine too... just make sure you consistently enforce that rule and that all family members are following through. Rules are crucial to good pet ownership and training. Just make sure the rules are fair.

Remember there's always another way than violence. If you're frustrated or upset with your dog chances are you didn't teach them the proper skills yet or haven't been consistent with your rules. Contact a dog friendly trainer in your area to help turn things around.

Here's Marco in a down position while I listen to the class instructions during our Rally Novice class. Instead of having a dog that barks, jumps up or is generally annoying I just taught him to hang out. Great skill to have in any situation. (And did I mention he's off leash in a room full of dogs here?).

The Best Dog Coats

2010-11-17T12:10:00.001-07:00

Well winter has hit and it's time for many dogs to bundle up when going outside. Both my Aussies are fine in just their heavy fur coats but my terriers are another story...

For years Russ and Heidi have been sporting Greenhawk Dog Blankets. I bought theirs a few years and they last! Russ has had the same coat for 5 years now and Heidi if she hadn't changed weights would have been in a similar situation.

They've added some new styles over time yet this coat remains a great deal! They retail for around $30cnd and are built to last! Visit their store in SE Calgary or check out the website: www.greenhawk.net

The coats come in a variety of colours, sizes and weights. Dog coats are needed for some of our lighter coated dogs such as terriers, pointers, most lap dogs and short coated herding breeds. Don't let your dog be cold this winter when he/she could be enjoying themselves outside.

Both Russ & Heidi give these jackets 2 paws up!

Why I Like It When Dogs Growl

2010-11-13T12:45:00.001-07:00

Each time I teach a Puppy Socialization class there's always at least 1 puppy who is terrified to come in the door the first day. The scaredy pup might be growling, hackled or even lunge and air snap. The harried owners look apologetic or get upset with their puppy. They often reprimand their dog.

I have a better idea... let your puppy express him or herself. We don't want to risk turning off "dog language". Growling is an important part of how dogs communicate to us that they feel threatened or scared. We need to know this! Otherwise you might end up with a dog who bites without warning.

Dogs and puppies alike talk to us using an assortment of important body language and sounds. We need to respect those so that we don't end up with a dog that can't communicate. A dog or puppy that won't growl or show teeth is just as likely to bite as a dog that does. The only difference is the one who isn't "talking" will catch people and other dogs completely by surprise.

Puppies come to class and adjust rather quickly. Your best bet would be to let your puppy settle in and just relax for a few minutes. Once they realize that they are safe they might venture around or actually begin to interact with the other puppies. Don't baby your pup but don't get mad at him either.

Marco and friend Maggie demonstrate play even though it looks like they're fighting. Sometimes dogs practice "fighting" or "aggressive" behaviours in play just like small children play house or war.

Calling All Small Dogs!

2010-11-10T11:07:00.001-07:00

Recently a friend of mine decided to open a luxury small dog bed and breakfast. This small facility caters to the discerning canine. Tiny Pawz Bed, Bark and Breakfast also offers dog daycare.

Small dogs definitely need their own spaces to play. They have a different play style and can easily be hurt by a larger dog with the best intentions. When choosing a daycare or boarding facility for your little one it is important to consider what types of dogs they will be mixed with.

Visit Tiny Pawz's website for more information: www.tinypawzbbb.com

5 Reasons Kennel Training is Essential

2010-11-05T09:15:00.004-06:00

While out working with clients I often get the question "Do you kennel train your dogs?". Well the answer is of course and for these reasons.

1. In case of medical emergency. My dog Tank recently had knee surgery and has been on kennel rest for 3 months. I can't image trying to get him comfortable with that if he hadn't already been use to staying in a kennel.

2. Travel. When on the road I need a place where my dogs can stay comfortably. This means we are more likely to be accepted at friends' homes and hotels. My dogs also get to take their "room" with them and therefore ease some anxiety.

3. Dog shows. Essential for anyone competing in dog sports. My dogs need to be able to hang out quietly in their kennel so I can walk courses, grab lunch and run one dog at a time.

4. Problem prevention. My dogs are kenneled when I go out. This keeps them from learning/practicing destructive behaviour such as eating garbage or more valuable objects in my home. This especially important with a young dog. They simply don't get the opportunity to learn bad behaviour this way.

5. Practicality. I have 3, sometimes 4 dogs in my home. Kenneling is an excellent way of feeding with ease, giving rest time to my exuberant dogs and giving guests who might not enjoy dogs a chance to visit (important when my infant nephew comes over).

There are so many reasons to kennel train. I highly recommend it and although my dogs spend very little time in their kennels on a day to day basis it's a skill that comes in handy. Even as I write this Tank is lying in his kennel enjoying a bone with the door open. He often chooses to hang out in there.

Catch the Good Stuff!

2010-10-29T13:02:00.003-06:00

A key ingredient in living harmoniously with our dogs is rewarding the good behaviours. It's all too easy to ignore our dogs when they are sleeping, sitting politely or simply enjoying a good chew toy. Those are the moments to pay attention!

We know that reinforced behaviour is likely to repeat itself. A good example of this is the number of dogs who will readily "sit" for a cookie. They learned long ago that sit was expected and can't give it fast enough.

Now what about making that moment about lying down so you can watch your favourite tv show or cook dinner? A good way to integrate positive reinforcement right into your daily life is to keep a few tasty treats in ziplock containers out of Fido's reach but close enough for you to easily grab. The same goes for high value toys. If you see your furry friend being good then simply throw him a small tidbit or his favourite rope to chew. Chances are he'll do it again!

This is extremely important for puppies and adolescent dogs who still need to learn the "house hold" rules. Help them out by pointing out what they're doing right and interrupting them when they make mistakes. You'll have a well behaved canine in no time!

Cleaning Up Your Cues

2010-10-16T08:13:00.001-06:00

"Charles, Charles, Charles" this still gets a laugh in my house. One day my family and I were enjoying a walk at River Park off leash area when this lady started to call her little Bichon mix to come. She must have said "Charles" over a hundred times with no response from her very cute fluff ball. He never did come and she resorted eventually to following him around and continued to call "Charles, Charles, Charles" in a very nasally voice.

The point of this little story? When humans are frustrated we tend to repeat ourselves. This happens all the time. We tend to change the tone of what we've said but generally not even the words themselves. This can be blatantly obvious when someone is speaking to another person from a different language background. The same thing goes for dogs. If they aren't responding the first time it could be because:

Rover is distracted
Rover doesn't understand the cue word
Rover doesn't care about the cue word

Now what? Well it's time to clean up your cues. When training begin with using a consistent training cue. Sit = Sit, Down = Down, Name = Look at me, Come = Come to me all the way and let me catch you, etc. Don't say down, lie down, lay down and use down when you mean off. This confuses your dog.

Only say your cue word 1 time when you are asking for a behaviour and then wait. So if I'm practicing sit at the curb I will state "sit", wait 10 seconds, add my hand signal and then simply wait for compliance. By not repeating myself I am making that cue word matter. It's not being lost in all that chatter that humans are so often associated with.

It's also important to ask yourself if your dog was ready to listen and demonstrate obedience skills in the environment you're in. If you've only ever practiced down indoors then maybe asking him to do it at the busy dog park is going to be too hard. Take things in steps and remember just because you taught a cue in one situation doesn't mean your dog will understand what it means somewhere else. Be a fair leader.

The other issue can be that we've already diluted or poisoned a cue word so the dog doesn't care about it anymore or worse has a negative association with it. This can be seen commonly with rescue dogs or dogs who have had a harsh training background. Suddenly "come" means I'm going to yell, scruff and roll you. That's a poisoned cue. When I get a new dog I'll often use a different recall word than "come". Some good options include "here", "hurry", "hustle", "let's go", etc. It doesn't matter what the word means in English as long as your dog thinks it means "BEST PARTY EVER".

Remember to use your cue words sparingly, associate them with positive rewards and make sure you have compliance when you ask your dog for something by setting him/her up for success. Dogs don't speak English (or any other human language) so we need to go slow, be clear and mean what we say.

More Pets Than People...

2010-10-07T11:48:00.003-06:00

Managing a multi-pet home can be challenging and I can definitely relate. I share my home with at minimum 3 dogs at a time and generally we will have an extra dog and one or two cats hanging around too. Here's some practical tips on how to live in harmony when the pets outnumber the people...

The most important first step is making each and every single dog has attended at least 1 obedience class. This allows you to bond one on one with your dog without the other pets competing for attention. It also allows you to create a basic foundation of training with your pet. All dogs should learn their name, sit, down, stay, how to walk on leash and recall. A good obedience class will give you those foundation skills in a rather short order.

It's also important to realize that training is a lifelong process for dogs. My own dogs attend classes regularly to enhance our bond, practice new skills in a distracting setting and to enjoy dog sports. If you're not a training addict like me that's alright but remember you will still need to spend time polishing your basic skills with each dog individually.

Karen London, PhD and Patricia McConnell, PhD also recommend giving your dogs a "group" name. This allows you to address your dogs all at once if need be. This comes in handy when you're at the park and need everyone to come at once. It can also be helpful when your dogs start to misbehave and you want their attention. A group name can be something as simple as "puppies" or "kids". I use "aussies" to address my boys. Heidi is rarely in on the action with them and generally just needs her individual name.

Remember when dealing with a home with dogs of a different breeds, ages, sizes, genders that the rules for one dog might not be the same for another. That's alright! My pint size Schnauzer is definitely allowed to do things that my 60lb Aussies are not. My puppy also has different rules than my trustworthy adult dogs and that's alright too. He'll have his chance to earn the same privileges. My puppy tends to get more training time and exercise time to make up for his extra rules. Life isn't always fair and that's alright!

If you're experiencing any aggression type issue with multiple dogs in the house make sure to contact a qualified positive reinforcement trainer to give you some guidance.

The Urban Dog

2010-10-04T11:22:00.002-06:00

Not too long ago I ran into a young woman who had recently purchased a Rottweiler puppy. Of course being me I couldn't help but share some advice and bring my dogs out for some socialization. Her pup was fearful of both dogs and people. The owner had also been struggling to walk her on leash and to eliminate pulling she had tied to the leash around the puppy's waist to create discomfort when she pulled (this confused the puppy and caused anxiety).

I showed her how to use a balance leash (re: tellington touch) and gave the little one some treats that I always seem to have on hand. She settled down and eventually played with my crew a bit. The owner admitted she didn't know what she was doing and thanked me for my leash advice.

My suggestion that she attend a puppy socialization class was met with utter disbelief on her part. She stated that her previous dogs did not attend training class and were great pets furthermore she didn't have the money since she had already paid for the puppy and a vet exam.

This kind of thing boggles my mind. Clearly the obvious benefits to puppy socialization classes are not common sense so I thought I would outline them.

We expect dogs today to interact appropriately in a busy urban setting and remain polite and calm around children, bikes, skateboard, joggers, motorcyclists, etc. It's clearly not fair to expect all these things without first giving them a chance to learn.

Puppy socialization will:

help your puppy learn that strangers (men, women, children) are friends and at the very least not a threat to be barked at or growled at
help your puppy learn key dog skills that you can not teach your puppy (the more dogs/puppies the better)
the window for socialization closes at 4 months so it's important that puppies are safely introduced to a variety of new things before then
your puppy will learn the beginning of obedience skills that he/she will need throughout their life
your puppy will be able to cope with stress a lot better

The urban dog today needs lots of preparation for city living. Please give your puppy a shot at this by ensuring they attend a puppy socialization class that uses positive reinforcement. I'd be more than happy to recommend you to one near you in Calgary and area.

How To Get Your Dog To Behave At The Dog Park

2010-09-29T13:03:00.002-06:00

I can't begin to count the amount of times I've seen well meaning dog owners take their best friend to the off leash park only to leave in anger when their fun loving pooch doesn't listen. A trip to the dog park takes prep work with obedience skills and requires a great deal of control without a leash.

One of the many reasons positive training is a great choice for pet owners is because the focus is teaching your dog to listen without any contact! I don't have to correct my dogs with a snap of the leash to get them to sit, down, stay, come, etc so when their leashes are off I still have the same control.

Nothing will replace taking working directly with a trainer to get your dog off leash ready but here's a few tips to help out the wonderful dog owners who want to give their dogs freedom and some play time.

Teach your recall word on leash to start: practice calling your dog clearly in the house. "Rover come" or "Rover here" and reward with an awesome treat. Back up a few steps and start again. What you're doing is building a positive association with your recall word. You need to start in a place with no distractions and practice over and over. Do not repeat your word. If your dog doesn't come try running backwards, clapping your hands or squeaking a toy. The idea is to teach your dog to come when you say the word the first time.

Up the Ante: Grab a leash or long line (a piece of rope about 20 feet long with a secure clip) and head out to a small, non-busy park. Practice your recall word and make it fun. Use toys, great treats and lots of praise. Slowly incorporate practice sessions to busier and busier locales.

Ready for Off Leash? Try off leash practice in a small, fenced park to start. Baseball diamonds work well! Also invite your friends to come and practice with their dogs to add distractions. Once you have a dog that is responding quickly and reliably try taking your dog to the dog park. Time your recall for moments when you know he/she will be successful. If your dog is ignoring snap the leash on and head home.

Key tips for long term success:

1. Always ensure that recall is something fun for your dog and reward it!

2. Never call your dog when the fun is over (aka only calling when you leave the park or for bath time, etc)

3. Bring tasty treats with you but also incorporate toys and games so your dog learns that you are also fun

4. Don't forget to keep practicing, this skill is too important to not keep fresh and reliable

The True Value of Obedience Skills

2010-09-28T12:05:00.001-06:00

I've always thought of obedience training as crucial to having a polite, well mannered family dog. As a dog sports competitor obedience is also a set of skills that dogs need to master to a very specific criteria. This month however, obedience skills had another use in my home.

Tank, my 4 year old Australian Shepherd has been suffering from a slight tear in his cruciate ligament. After months of osteopathy and kennel rest it became apparent that he needed surgery to recovery from this injury. After several weeks of preparation (DAP, setting up "stations" around the house for him and getting rid of some excess weight) Tank was ready for his big day. He came through the surgery without cause for concern but we still had an arduous journey ahead of us.

Our wonderful vet, Dr.Barlow from Okotoks Animal Clinic told us bluntly from that start that he was responsible for 30% of the success but the other 70% comes from rest, physio and proper management of his recovery. Tank began 3 months of kennel rest with limited exercise and no contact with our 2 other dogs.

Limited exercise meant that Tank needed to spend his days in an exercise pen or kennel. Thanks to kennel training throughout his life he was able to adjust to this without pause. He has always associated his kennel and pen with a nice bed, good toys and wonderful treats. It also meant that on Tank's short 3 to 5 minute walks he needed to be under control. Of course a formal heel comes into play here. This high energy, happy go lucky dog was no longer getting off leash time so he was a bundle of excitement on walks. We used the formal heel to keep focus on the handler, ignore distractions such as other dogs, squirrels and rabbits as well as to keep him from putting excess pressure on his healing knee.

The work didn't stop there. Tank gets regular cuddle sessions throughout the day to ease his mind and of course keep him happy. The dog can't get enough love to save his life! So Tank began to get "special" treatment. He was allowed to have one on one time on the couch or the bed while I enjoyed a book or tv show. This meant that Tank needed a stay so that he wouldn't jump off the furniture and injure himself. This stay included distractions such as family members coming home, doorbells and strange noises. Luckily Tank has long ago mastered the stay and could safely hang out on the couch or bed without cause for concern.

Never doubt the benefits of obedience training. You never know when you will need these skills in real life. Tank's handle-ability also allowed for x-rays to be taken without him having to be sedated. There are numerous uses for obedience and I can't imagine going through this surgery and recovery without these skills.